These days,
'less is more' and 'more bang for your buck' are phrases often seen among
advice from much coveted opinion informers of the fashion world. While that is
sensible advice in these economically austere times, it seems that the opulent world
of couture is in a galaxy of its own, far away from the typical restraints of
budgets and bills.
The dichotomy of ready-to-wear and couture has been slowly algamated
in 2012, in conjunction with the rapidly increasing number of people … this
fusion of often whimsical, yet beautiful exclusivity, might not seem the
perfect match, but examples of this way of dressing show that the middle ground
between the two sides of fashion can produce truly individual and innovative outfits.
To call this blend of fashion a trend, is to diminish it to
some sort of fad that may or may not last into next season. Instead, teaming
haute couture and ready to wear garments is a question of what one thinks of
themselves. Do they value tradition? Are they afraid of creation ex nihlo?
Today, there appears
to be a particular emphasis on high-end luxury that causes some collections to
lack vitality and risk-taking. The more playful, less restricted (in a
snobbish sense) ready-to-wear garments give outfits comprising of these two
opposing facets of fashion a new lease of life. Together, they are a formidable
force.
Giorgio Armani is often thought of as being responsible for
the birth of the first ‘fashion’ suit of the ready to wear kind, where the
structure and lines that defined British tailoring were taken out, and a
softer, more relaxed approach to the most formal of men’s attire, floated onto
the pages of fashion history with the weight of its influence made apparent by
its reverence worldwide.
Ozwald Boateng sees himself among the first “men’s
couturiers” as they were “creative tailors”, seeking to harmonise their cloth
with the customers body shape through an agreement between the tailor and
customer that saw the individuals style best represented. A time not so long
ago, men’s fashion was in violent conflict between tradition and modernity that
have been resolved through Boateng’s fresh approach to a previously purely
bourgeois service.
Many still think of haute couture as a designers playground,
where highly skilled creators or ‘couturiers’ are employed to craft garments
that transport our minds momentarily to another world. However, runway shows
over the past few years have show that the line between the aesthetic of
couture and ready to wear has become increasingly blurred as ready to wear can
be incredibly elaborate, and couture shows particularly understated.
One reason why many fashion critics despise the word
aesthetic is because it detracts from the painfully labour-intensive, detail
driven production of couture’s mesmerising beauty. With couture analogous to religion,
haute casual can be seen as the modern day liberal believer, where their
passion and patience are matched by their acceptance of other ideas and
beliefs. Both require a sense of value, but haute casual allows for a little
less respect for tradition and a permeable skin that can be infused with a
fresh blast of insouciant air.
On the
other hand, couture (effectively a synonym for bespoke) channels its labour
intensive efforts solely to produce the most luxurious garments that are
designed and made exactly as the customer wanted. Of course, there is a premium
for such personal tailored service, and with the requisite fabrics of a finer
kind meaning that haute couture houses operate at a loss; the first-come
first-serve nature of these garments makes them more exclusive still.
There appears to be two sides to haute casual: on the one
hand, there is a humble sense of luxury, where nods to subtle craftsmanship can
be observed by the detail junky sartorialist; on the other hand, there is an
excessive, ostentatious side that is brought down to earth by a statement of
simplicity, often in the form of staple leather sneaker or a block of neutral
colour that contrasts with the vibrant green of a Boateng suit.
Outfit One:
An obvious outfit example is one all of you will have come across
before, and most of you will either love it, or hate it: suit and trainers. In
this instance, suit, tee shirt and
trainers. The juxtaposition of formal and casual clothing taps into the magically
real character that makes haute casual so divine, yet agreeable.
For this outfit, fit and quality is key. Well, fit is a prerequisite
of any outfit, and to channel this haute casual outlook, the best quality you
can afford means you will be set to adorn yourself in a number of different
styles, formal and casual, with a suit that will last you for many years.
Outfit Two:
Mohair is very much the fabric of this season, with Nicholas Hoult
swathed in a white mohair jumper showing just how delectable the wool is in Tom
Ford’s A Single Man. Another easy to
combine tailored sophistication with throw-it-on cool can be achieved by simply
slipping into those tailored wool trousers you all should own, preferably in a
slim fit to conflict with the more casually fitting jumper in the most
beautiful way.
The easiness of the outfit should continue with the foundations of
the outfit. In this instance, I would have the shoes correspond with the more
formal aspect of the trousers with a pair of brogues or oxfords, but
undoubtedly with a twist, whether that is a vibram sole or a colour other than
black, brown or tan. Think outside the box.
This is an outfit of intrigue mainly owing to its apparent
simplicity, which is one way of showing off inherent style without actually
having been born with it.
Hopefully this does not pigeonhole any of you, as you have learnt that
it such style is more evident on the streets and at the shows than first
thought. However, as boys and men interested in how to maintain healthy skin as
much as they are in choosing the most stylish clothes, it would be foolish for
you to pertain that you are uninterested in adding a boiled cashmere jumper to
your wardrobe. For that is the way stylish men think, with their feet on the
ground and their heads in the clouds.
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